Reversible Burlap Pennant Banner tutorial DIY

I am SUPER excited to be sharing this with you!!  I have seen a few tutorials on making reversible banners, but they involved ribbon covering the fold on the opposite side or just leaving it.  They were cute, but I have a touch of OCD so I wanted a cleaner look.

I researched many tutorials deciding first on how to make the actual triangle for the pennant (I will get to the actual process soon).  Once I determined the size of pennant I wanted to use, I then grabbed a sheet of regular paper and a scrap and started making a scaled down version to see if my plan would work.  Guess what??  It would!  I could now purchase the fabric and get ready to cut out my "diamonds".

Supplies

Burlap

Scissors/rotary cutter (and mat)

Cardboard (not necessary but easier)

Freezer paper or contact paper

X-acto knife

Letters to trace

Iron (if using freezer paper)

Craft paint

Brushes

Twine

Glitter (optional)

Modge podge/glue and water combo (if using glitter)

Glue gun (or whatever you want to use to glue together)

Grab your keys and head to your local fabric store!  As long as the fabric width is 44" (mine was 48") then you will need less than 1 yard.  There are many types of burlap.  Just get the one that calls to you.  Mine was $3.99 a yard but I had a 50% off coupon.  SCORE!
I picked up my craft paint at a big box store, because it is way cheaper than at the fabric store.  I got the rest of my items here as well.  So two trips isn't bad (even lugging four kids with you).

I am thankful I have a large cutting mat, about the size of my art table (saved from high school).  This was a present to myself a couple of years ago.  I believe I got it off amazon.com.  It is worth every penny!  Because of this mat and my rotary cutter I like to make templates of the object I will be cutting out of cardboard.  You don't have to do this but I find it much easier and more precise.
To make the template of my "diamond" I first need to make one triangle....that will be what the pennant will look like hanging.

I took a standard sheet of paper and folded in half the long way.  I have now found middle.  I then used a straight edge to draw a line from one corner to top middle on both sides.  I then cut out my triangle and then I cut about an inch off the bottom of the triangle.  I traced this on a piece of cardboard (try and find as pristine pieces you can).  I cut out two triangles and then tapped them together at the bottom, so that I could just make single ones later on and it was easier to store (I see more pennants in my future). 

One triangle.

Two triangles together making a diamond.

After cutting them out and having one of the triangles shift, it probably would be better to just cut out one piece, instead of two tapped together.  So it is up to you.  It worked fine, but some didn't come out the way I wanted, or I wasted some burlap because it didn't line up the way it should.
Now it is time to cut the fabric.  I laid the fabric out on my mat.  We are going to be working with the width of the fabric.  Lay your diamond so that the tip of one pennant length side.  The seam corner is on the edge where the fabric was cut.  I then used my rotary cutter and cut around my cardboard creating a diamond.  Then take your cardboard and move it so that the tip of it will touch the tip of the piece you just cut out, and the edge of the seam again will be on the cut edge (from the fabric store).  Cut.  Where the two tips met you will be able to fit the diamond template in there, cut again.  You should now have three diamonds.

This is the second batch of three.  You can see the tip to tip and then below where the third triangle is cut.

Repeat these and now you will have six diamonds and some triangles (and more) to boot!  Set them aside.
Next was determining the font I wanted to use.  I can't remember what I chose (sorry) but I do know that I  set the font to 320 to get it to the correct size.  I also found pictures on google images for the heart and shamrock.  I downloaded the picture and then on a word document made a picture box and adjusted the size to match up to the font size I used.  Totally eyeballed it!  I then printed these out.  You are going to be tracing these so it doesn't matter how many are on a page.
Next I cut strips of freezer paper (or contact paper....both worked great) about 4".  It should be wider than you letters with plenty of room for error.  Then I cut the strips large enough to accommodate the letters.  Once I cut out all my squares (I needed 12) now it is time to trace.  Lay the freezer paper (or contact) shiny side DOWN over the letters and trace out your design.  This part doesn't have to be perfect because you will be cutting over the line, so if you goof just fix it and move on.  Once that is complete it is time to cut out your letters.
I just used my big mat for this.  I recommend using a self healing mat, but you could use a magazine if you don't have one. Cut out the letters.  The shiny side should be the back of the letter.  You don't need the actual letters you need the square you cut them out of.  This is your stencil.  For the O you will also need the center portion.  Now it's time to bust out the iron....now where is that thing?  (I don't iron....ever!)
The iron will attach the freezer paper to the burlap.  If using contact paper you don't need to do this, however I decided to iron my burlap anyway.  Some pieces had creases where the fabric had been folded from being on the board, plus I decided to create a crease where you would fold the diamond to make a triangle.  I felt like the burlap handled pretty high heat (no steam...especially for attaching the paper) but I have no idea what the fabric calls for.  I ironed out all the creases I didn't want and then a created a crease at the top where the twine will go.  After I got the burlap nice and neat, it is time to attach the letters.  I started with the heart and shamrock.  This was easy and brainless. Just line up where you want the letter/object to be and lay the iron down "gluing" it to the burlap.  This doesn't take long if the iron is hot.  Then continue with the rest of the letters.   I almost made a huge mistake and put the L for Love and the L for Luck on the same pennant....this will not work when you turn it around.  I don't know what I was thinking.  Maybe the distraction of the four kids....yes I will stick with that argument.  After the shapes, I started with L on one side and E on the other.  U and V,  C and O, K and L (I hope this all makes sense!).

This is where the project starts to move along quickly.  Now that all your stencils are attached it is time to paint.  Grab your brush (I like foam type because it is better for dabbing because you don't want paint getting under your stencil), paint,  make sure your diamond is open and you have something under because the paint will bleed through and start dabbing.  I was impatient and didn't wait for the one side to dry before I painted the other.  It ended up being fine but you decided what works for you.

This is the contact paper.  Worked great.  Maybe a tad bit more difficult because getting the back off...but not really that hard.

Once the paint is all dry, next comes glitter.  This is optional.  I feel like the glitter made it just that much cuter, and I had a lot of different colors of glitter.  I used "matching" colors.  I also made my own Modge Podge.  For this craft I don't think it is necessary to use that nice of a medium.  So I just mixed a 50/50 mixture of glue and water (elmers or roseart...what ever you have on hand).  Your stencil is still on at this point!  You will take a foam brush and brush/dab on the glue mixture covering the painted area.  You don't need a ton.  Then sprinkle on your glitter.  I found holding the glitter higher up rather than close helped my not apply too much.  I tapped off the excess to be reused and moved on to the rest.  Let this dry completely.
I cut about 4 yards of twine.  I wanted options and to make sure I had enough.  Now it is time to break out the glue gun. I opened up the diamond but now the letters are facing down and I laid the twine in the crease.  I didn't want mine to be glued together because I wanted to be able to move and adjust them (and I thought about gluing one I had them placed where I wanted them....but nah).  I put a strip of blue about 1" below the crease, and making sure to hold the twine in the crease and out of the glue, I carefully folded the top half down attaching top and bottom.  Next I put a strip of glue down each side of the triangle, but only half way down.  I married up each edge and pressed it down.  Then I put more glue down the rest of each edge and finished.  I did it in steps for a couple of reasons.  One the glue cooled too fast trying to do a strip all the way down on both sides, plus they aren't perfect and it gave me time to marry up the edges on the top side and then adjust on the bottom if I needed.  So do this with the remaining pennants, making sure to spell it correctly!!  I tied a knot on one end and then hung up to the desired location and tied a knot at the other end.  I can move the pennants back and forth as I like (which is great because I move so much).
Now stand back and look at your handy work!  Cute right?!?!?!   I see a lot more of these in my future, how about you?

Temporary Tattoo - Tris from Divergent

So, it was storybook character day at school.  My eldest is an avid reader.  She really liked Tris from Divergent, so that is who she wanted to go as.  It wasn't just the clothing we HAD to find, but the TATTOO!  She was wanting to wear a tank top with a jacket over...ummm NO! It is snowing here, in fact the original character day was canceled bc they closed school due to snow/ice.  So I was hoping I could get off the hook for the tattoo.  Not so lucky with that one!

So I hunted and hunted and watched a few tutorials.  Many that involved liquid eyeliner.  Which if I had time in the morning, sure I could attempt that.  But I have four kids and two which are participating in character day, and the other two are my busy ones and I have to keep them out of trouble.  So between breakfast, messes, braids (I had a Katniss on my hands) and tattoo...it needed to be easy!

Supplies

Contact paper

X-acto knife

cutting surface

black face paint

I first researched the tattoo online.  I needed an image to copy.  I decided to do this on my iPad so I could just lay it down and copy over it...but there was a problem.  Everytime I touched the screen it made the image go back to thumbnail.  So I did a screen capture.  Still wasn't working...so I just printed the image.

I laid my image over the contact paper.  I couldn't see it through the paper to trace.  If you can, then great!  My first mistake was putting the image on the non sticky side...so the tattoo would have been inverted.  On my contact paper (bought at the dollar store.  Used for lining shelves.  I got clear but I imagine any will do!) the one side has a grid pattern the other, is white...but that is the sticky side.  So lay your image over the sticky side.  I used my x-acto knife and cut through all the layers of paper.  This is pretty small and has some fine corners, so use your time and be patient.  The bottom layer didn't come out all the way so I went around where it was still attached.  I used the knife to pull each layer out holding tight so that things didn't shift. 

This was me doing it on the WRONG side....

Once we were done, it was ready to be applied.

The morning of, I applied the template to her skin.  I didn't do anything to prep it.  She had showered that morning and as usually didn't apply any lotion (sigh).  I took the back off the contact paper and laid down the template where I wanted it.  I made sure all the little corners were down.  Then I wet a make up sponge/wedge and rung out any extra water.  Then I dipped it in the black face paint and started applying the paint from the edges in.  I didn't want any paint going under the edge, so I treated it like a stencil.  I did some dabbing around the edges and if I need to do more of a pulling motion I did from the edge to the center.

After I was done applying the paint, I sprayed it with some hairspray.  Not sure if it was needed but I felt it would help set it.  I let it sit like this for awhile (because I had to braid Katniss' hair).  Then I pulled off the the template.  I sprayed it again with some hairspray to help keep the edges clean.  After it dried, I brushed some Rodan+Fields mineral powder over to make it look a little more like it wasn't just sitting on top of the skin and have a more tattoo look.  This also helped the redness, because my daughter has sensitive skin and I left it on too long, and it gave her a nice peptide treatment!  Lol.

The nice thing about the contact paper was that it isn't too sticky.  It peeled off nicely.  Of course if you have any type of adhesive allergy/sensitivity do not do this.

My daughter was thrilled with the results and I was pretty impressed if I don't say so myself. 

She wasn't too thrilled with me taking a photo....

Katniss and Tris...they are getting too big!

I hope this makes sense.  If you have any questions let me know!

Chamois Fitted Crib Sheet Tutorial

So, I have taken a HUGE break.  So sorry.  Don't worry, I have been uber busy building and crafting and will be sharing with you all soon.  Today, I decided I would start with a sewing project.  The inspiration for this came from this blog.  It is relatively easy, the hardest part was cutting the fabric and threading the elastic....so I think you can do it!

So first, go measure your mattress.  A standard mattress is 51" x 28".  If not, then add 16" to both the width and length to determine how much fabric you will need.  I have a standard mattress and will be using dimensions based off MY mattress.

Supplies

2 yards of fabric

scissors/rotary cutter

straight edge (yard stick for me)

coordinating thread

2.75 yards of elastic (width is your preference)

pins

Now, go head to you local fabric store and pick out your favorite chamois, minky fabric....don't forget your COUPON!  You will need 2 yards (remember I have a standard matress...two yards should cover most though).  If you want to make a matching changing pad cover get 1 more yard.

I always wash my fabrics first.  That way IF there is any shrinkage I get that out of the way BEFORE I sew!
Now to the "hard" part....cutting your fabric.  For the standard mattress you will want to cut a rectangle that is 67" x 44".  Once you have your rectangle you will need to cut 8" squares out of each corner.  You can either do them individually, or fold the rectangle in half, then in half again, getting all the corner matched up.  Did I loose you?

Fold in half the long edge to long edge.

Fold in half short edge to short edge.

All four corners together.

 Now that I have my fabric folded I cut an 8" square with my rotary cutter and a straight edge.  Be patient and make sure you go thru all the layers.

Time to start sewing!!!  We are going to be making a french seam.  I have been told that this fabric sheds...so we are going to contain it.  Grab one corner and put the WRONG sides together and pin.  This will seem like it goes against everything you have ever been taught.  It will be ok, I promise!

Sewing wrong sides together.

I sewed about 1/4" seam allowance.  I am not exact and I just sew sometimes...oh well.  Once you have sewed your seam you are going to fold that corner so that right side of the fabric is facing each other and you are going to sew, making sure that you encase the edge of fabric you just joined.  This will take about a 5/8 " seam allowance.

Sewing right sides together, encase the edge of the fabric with the seam.

Congratulations!  You just made a french seam!!!   Do this for all four corners.

Once all the corners are all done it is time to create the pocket for the elastic.  Start by folding the fabric edge up 1/2".  Then take that folded edge and fold it up 1" and pin.  Do this all the way around the fabric. Or another way to do it is, fold up the edge 1.5" then tucking the top 1/2" of that fold down (it depends on how your brain works which you will get).  The first one is easy for me, the second took me a couple of tries so I took photos). 

Folding the unfinished edge up 1.5"

Folding the unfinished edge down 1/2" leaving 1"encasement.

 Once it is pinned in place you will pin all the way around leaving 2" opening to insert your elastic.  I think about 2.5 yards of elastic will do, but definitely 2.75 will be plenty.  Attach a safety pin to the edge and start threading through.  It gets harder as you start getting closer to the end, just keep swimming...
Once the elastic is thread through, I attached the ends (once I was happy with the length and the amount of tension) of the elastic with a zig zag stitch (sorry I thought I took a photo, but I think you get it!).  I went over it twice.  Tuck the end of the elastic in the encasement and sew it closed.
Now, run upstairs and throw everything off the mattress and slap that bad boy on.  Do a happy dance that you didn't drop a pretty penny at PBK!  My plans are to turn this into a blanket after he is done, but cutting off the edges and attaching a back...but not now.
Now to make one in my size....lol

As always, if you have any questions let me know!!  Happy sewing!

Rustic Bench and Coat Rack Tutorial

Here at my house we have been under going many projects.  We are updating the upstairs, gutted the basement restroom and are in the process of putting it back together, so I thought what's one more thing!  HA!  When I brought my idea to do this project to my husband, I thought for sure he was going to tell me I was crazy because we have so many other things going on.  Thankfully for me, he saw what I saw....an easy project that would ultimately make my life a bit easier and he didn't say 'No', so I immediately ran to my local home improvement store!

I wasn't following any plans, just an idea I had and a space to fill. 

This was what was thrown here.  Not really working for me,

I wanted something chunky for a bench.  So I decided to use a 2x12.  My hallway is less than 5' wide, and I always remember that you should have 3' for walking room.  So I didn't want something too wide.  Plus it would just clutter the space.
For the back piece of the bench and the coat rack I used a 1x8.  I unfortunately got these in two trips, because I was making it up as I go.  I wasn't sure if I needed a back, but after building the bench, I felt like a back would anchor it better.

Here is a list of what I needed...

1- 2x12x8' (you need 8' for this project however my store only sold it in 12' length so I can make another bench now!)
1- 1x8x10' try to find the straightest one you can
8- 2-1/2in double wide corner braces this (these came two to a pack so I only needed to purchase 4 packs)
wood screws
stain of choice (I used Varathane in Dark Walnut)
5 hooks of choice (we used this)
nail gun

Cut list:
2x12: 1- 5' & 2- 16"
1x8: 2- 5' sections

easy peasey!

When I got my wood home I started staining.  I wanted to distress it a bit so I took a hammer to it.

 I used it the "right way" and then turned it to the side and hit that way too.  You can use chains as well, we just didn't have any.  I figure my kids are going to take care of all the distressing!

As a big painter, the staining was quite a fast process.  I just followed the directions on the can. 

Apply liberally wait 2-3 minutes then wipe off the excess.  I used a lot of fabric to wipe up the excess.  I had a ripped fitted sheet that I used.  As for the brush I used...you can use those foam ones or I just grabbed a cheap 1" brush that my kids use for painting.  TIP- you need mineral spirits for cleaning...so needless to say I threw the brush in the trash because I didn't have any.

So after my wood was dry, it was time to assemble.  Determine which side of the 2x12x5' is going to the the top of the bench and lay that side down on the floor.  You will be using the 16" pieces as legs.  I wanted there to be four feet from inside leg to other inside leg.  I don't know how to go about telling you to accomplish this...so I will let you just figure it out...I know you can do it!

So we have this awesome right angle clamp to hold the leg to the bench, but if you don't have one,  it would sure help to have an extra pair of hands.  So once you have figured out placement of the legs you will stand the leg on the bottom side of the bench, place the brackets where you want them.

We used two on each side of the leg, so each leg had 4 total brackets.  My kids are rough on things so I wanted them reinforced.  We placed each bracket about 1.5" from each side. You can either mark the spots with a pen, using the bracket as your template, or just use the bracket and drill your pilot holes.  Once you have done that you can use the hardware that came with the brackets to attach the legs to the bench. (I ended up taking stain after it was built and go over the shiny brackets.  It doesn't look pretty but now I can't see them glaring at me).
 So, because I had someone at the store cut them for me, the legs weren't completely straight, and neither are my floors I am sure! So we attached a shim to the bottom of one of the legs and stained it.

Shim

Hopefully you can skip this step!  If you do need it, you just need to move the shim in and out until it the wobble goes away...gotta just mess with it.
To attach the back, we used our handy dandy tool again, other wise help would be awesome...We lined up the bottom of the bench with the long side of the 1x8.

Bottom of bench meets with bottom of long side

Again drilling pilot holes, we did 8 evenly spaced.

Brady wanted to help.

I also wanted the holes countersunk too.  This will help it lay flatter against the wall (if your walls are straight....mine aren't even close!).  Attach the back using wood screws. 
Voila your bench is done!

We had thought about attaching the bench to the wall for multiple reasons.  One being worried about the back being pushed on a lot and it not holding.  Seeing as our wall curves horribly, attaching it is NOT going to happen! So I leave that choice to you.

This end is pushed as close as it will go...sigh

So now for the coat rack.  First, figure out where you want to place your bench.  We lined up our coat rack right over it and wanted the ends to match.  Second find where all your studs are.  We put the board up first and then attached the hooks.  So you need to determine what height you want it to be.  We placed ours 55.5" from the floor to the bottom of the board.  We attached the board using our nail gun and 2" nails.  We nailed the board into the studs using 4 nails per stud.  We had four studs that the board covered, so we figured it isn't going anywhere!

Now that the board is up you need to attach the hooks (almost done...this is where I get super excited!).  We used 5 hooks so we placed them (the middle of the hook just eyeballing it) at 8", 19', 30",41", 52".  We placed them about 1" from the bottom of the board to the bottom of the hook.  I wanted them low on the board so you can see more of the board.  You can place them where ever you would like.  I am just telling you what I did in case you love it as much as me :).
So, like the brackets you can either mark all the holes that need to be drilled or just hold up the hook and drill the pilot holes while holding up the hook and using as a template.  When all the pilot holes are drilled, attach the hooks using the hardware they came with. 

Line the bench up with the coat rack and get ready to do your happy dance...Guess what...you're done!  Have the closest toddler see what they can reach now...

Before

After

I would love to see all the benches you make...
If you have any questions, ask away.  I am sure I have left something out.  Seeing as I am writing this and my kids are running around, asking me questions, fighting, etc.

Have a good one!  Happy building!!!

Side note:  we we re purposed the bookcase in our kitchen nook where we were going to build a cabinet.  That project just got put on the back burner...for awhile.  Love when things work out!

Flannel Infinity Scarf tutorial

Flannel Infinity Scarf - tutorial DIY

Sorry for the long delay between posts.  October was insane and I felt the month of November was spent digging out.  So now with Christmas on the horizon, I thought I would share how to make these super easy scarves.  I think they are affordable and simple and would make a great gift!  So here I go....
I posted the link on my previous post to the tutorial I used.  I have decided to do it again, because when searching things on Pintrest, I would go to the site of something I like, only to redirect me to another site.  So I am trying to simplify for you.  If you'd like to see the origin of this tutorial go here.

First head over to your favorite fabric store and pick out your favorite flannel.  You will need 1.75 yards.  I have found most are 42inches wide.  IF you get two yards there are some fun things you can do with that extra .25yard.

When you get home find a big space (just to make life easier) and lay out your fabric. 

You are going to be cutting right down the middle on the short side of fabric yielding two long (1.75 yards to be exact) strips of fabric.  I simply folded in half the on the short side and used my pinking shears to cut.

Folded in half the long way

Cut in half

This brings me to how to handle fraying.  Flannel frays!  So, I read that pinking shears will work if you don't have a serger.  I am not a fabric expert and rely on the advice of others.  I did on some scarves try a zigzag stitch.  So either cut around the whole perimeter with pinking shears or use a zigzag stitch or serger.

Once you have your fabric ready fold one strip in half, on the short side, right sides facing each other (mine didn't really have a right side, they both were the same).  Now you can pin if you want but I just used my hand to guide.  On the long edge you are going to sew almost the whole length of the fabric, but leaving 2 inches open at the top and bottom.  I always use about 1/2 inch seam allowance.  I try 1/4" and always am more comfortable with 1/2" (I don't know why).

Sewing down the long edge...

Leaving two inches at top and bottom!

  Turn the fabric right-side out.  (I missed this step my first time).  I found putting my arm inside the tube and grabbing the opposite end and then pulling it up through worked well. 

Reach arm into tube and grab the end

Pull it through to the right side.

 This is what it looks like when pulled out, showing the two inches at the end...

Right side, with two inches not done on either end.

Once you have straightened out the fabric and get it laying flat, fold in half the long way.  So now the ends of the scarf are matched up. 

The short ends matched up.  Fabric folded the long way.

This is where it gets hard to describe.  You will grab the two middle pieces, pushing the other pieces away, and start to sew.

Grab the middle pieces of fabric

Sewing only the two middle pieces at this point....make sure to push the top and bottom fabric out of the way!

You will continue around (the very end will be hard), marrying up the fabric as you go. 

Sewing along, pulling the fabric together as you go

Eventually you will be swing the top and bottom piece.  Just trust me.

After  you have completed joining the seams.

Another view..

  Once you have connected the ends of the scarf together you are ready to close!

Pulling the joined edges into tube.

You are going to push in the sewn ends inside the big tube.

After pulling the ends in.  Now to close that hole.

I pull the seam tight and push the fabric down, then I pin it closed.  This is because I use a machine to close and I can get closer to the edge (just my technique).  You can use an invisible stitch and do by hand...but no one will really see it so I say make life easy and use your machine.

I put a pin right at the hole opening so I stitch a little before

I am stitching super close to the edge...red means stop.

 Cut all the lose strings and you are DONE!!

Even works well for big kids! 





















Feel free to share with me your scarves and if you have any questions!
Thanks for stopping by!

So unassuming at first but goes with a lot!

Looks amazing with my orange coat and SO fall!